Aurigo is located among the inland valleys of western Liguria, in the Maro valley, where the Valle Impero opens up, the largest in the province of Imperia and the one that connects Piedmont to the coast. The town’s population, a little more than 300, are known as the Figaléi, that is "fig growers". As legend would have it the Charioteers, supporters of this trade, actually asked that the Napoleonic road to Piedmont, originally destined to pass through the territory of Aurigo, be diverted to avoid cutting even one single fig tree. What is certain is that the Charioteers, having always had countless figs, made it a source for their livelihood, selling them all around even in exchange for food. And still today, every piece of land owned has at least one fig tree, a plant that has the merit of supporting, with its roots, the soil and the typical dry-stone walls that characterize the Ligurian inland landscape. But in addition to trade, the figs harvested and dried were used to prepare Pan de Fighe, so woe betide stealing even just one!
Photo by Nicola Ferrarese
Pan de Fighe yesterday
There was a time when those who went to Aurigo couldn't go back without Pan de Fighe. It was the greatest gift that an Auriguese could give, symbolizing an ancient skill handed down from generation to generation from a local product. A typical Ligurian characteristic, that of making something available from natural surroundings prosper in the kitchen. Figs… white, black, blonde, the larger ones are best, were picked at sunrise or before sunset and then dried in the sun on the vinse, trellises with woven canes. Once dried, they were wrapped and closed in fig leaves, with laurel, thyme, rosemary, and walnuts, and this is exactly where the art was! Then, when they were covered with a natural layer of sugar, called râxa, they were ready to be consumed, or rather given as gifts. Pan de Fighe, was in fact the best Christmas gift offering, given to those held dearest, the Child Jesus and the priest.
Photo by Nicola Ferrarese
Pan de Fighe today
If today we still have testimonies that Pan de Fighe exists, it’s thanks to the work carried out by Liguria Inside, a team of three youngsters engaged for years in the precious work of promoting the Ligurian inland territory, which is more difficult to transmit and less immediate than the coast. Since 2017, one of them, Nicola Ferrarese, is the only one to carry on the Pan de Fighe tradition in his company Tèra de Prie, respecting the old recipe, but especially maintaining the two main ingredients involved in its creation, namely time and dedication.
Pan de Fighe tomorrow
Their goal of discovering the West, from the Sea to the Ligurian Alps has far from stopped: it continues with Wepesto, a varied group of people strongly united by wanting to tell the world about their land and Ponente Experience, another part of their work born to promote tourism through outdoor activities, organized by professionals. During this time they are involved in the Liguriawow project. But it always continues to start from the beginning, that is, from Pan de Fighe.