The wines of Sicily are among Italy's most dynamic, produced in regions that wine pilgrims deem worth the trip alone. During the 1990s, some of the wineries began attracting attention abroad. The new millennium brought on "Nero d'Avola mania," which subsequently thrust other Sicilian wines made from different native grapes into the spotlight.
Today, the wines of Mount Etna, the active volcano near the west coast, are the stars of island. These comprise Etna Rosso wines made from the red Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccino grapes and Etna Bianco wines made from the white Carricante and Catarratto grapes.
As an immense heterogeneous territory comprising almost 100,000 hectares/247,105 acres of vineyards, Sicily conceals other beloved rare wines. The passito wines of Pantelleria, made from the Zibibbo grape and those of the Aeolian islands made from the Malvasia grape as well as Marsala, are all coming back in vogue thanks to aperitivo and mixology experimentations.
The southeastern extremity is home to the island's only DOCG wine, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a red made from the Nero d'Avola and Frappato grapes. The latter, when vinified alone, results in graceful, modern wines.
The top white wines, in addition to those of Etna, are produced with Grillo and Inzolia grapes. Perricone, a little known but interesting native vine from the island's western area, produces spicy and long-lived reds. Here are some wines of Sicily worth a try.
Cantine Settesoli Etna Rosso Mandrarossa Storie Ritrovate Sentiero delle Gerle 2016
Striking an excellent balance between quality and price, this smooth and spicy Nerello Mascalese goes well with meat dishes. website
Canicattì Arcifà 2019 CVA
From a quality cooperative cellar, this wine made from Catarratto has notes of citrus and elderflower on the nose, and a fresh, mineral flavor. Serve it with pasta with sardines. website
Valle dell'Acate Vittoria Il Frappato 2020
This fresh red wine is super drinkable, thanks to the acidic backbone and raspberry scent. It pairs nicely with fish. Try it with seafood couscous. website
Tua Rita Passito di Pantelleria Sese 2017
This small production wine was born from a Tuscan winemaker who fell in love with the island of Pantelleria. The complex passito has aromas of raisins, dates, dried figs, and Mediterranean herbs, and packs a nice balance between sweetness and acidity. Sip it alongside a citrus tart. website
Baglio di Cristo Sicily Nero d'Avola Lu Patri di Campobello 2017
This Nero d'Avola was harvested on calcareous and chalky soils, which combines all the typical aromas of the grape, such as those of black cherry, chocolate, and licorice, with an elegant freshness and a beautiful complexity. Pair it with anelletti al forno, a type of baked pasta. website
Cover photo: Nerello Mascalese grapes growing near Mount Etna. Credit: David Silverman/Getty Images