A sparkling red wine that's practically synonymous with Emila-Romagna, Lambrusco comprises eight DOCs, a mosaic of vineyards enclosed in an area between the provinces of Modena, Reggio Emilia, and Parma, plus the Lombard city of Mantua.
Lambrusco represents the roots of Italianità, and not just for its popularity among Italians or how it's Italy's most exported wine, but because it's always known how to reinvent itself, thanks to producers who have interpreted traditions in a modern way, adapting them to the tastes of the younger generation. In recent decades, this has become a significant trend for wine enthusiasts.
In 1978, Enzo Ferrari had convinced a Lambrusco producer to sponsor the rookie Canadian driver Gilles Villeneuve, because of the notoriety that the “Italian Coca-Cola” had even then in Canada and the United States. But now its fame can be attributed to a qualitative revolution that starts from the vineyards and a new way of thinking about Lambrusco and the area it represents.
Lambrusco grapes (ph D. Lovatti)
Ancient spontaneity
Sweet and dry, spumante and sparkling, red or rosé, Lambrusco has many nuances thanks to the innate versatility of the three main varieties of grapes used to produce it: the elegant and clear Sorbara, intense and vinous Salamino, and the fruity and full-bodied Grasparossa. The traditional sparkling and sweet versions of Lambrusco are due to spontaneous re-fermentation and rudimentary techniques. But they’re still the most popular and most appreciated abroad due to the low alcohol content and captivating presence of sugar that enhances the fruity grape notes. But Lambrusco has much more to it than sweetness and lightness. It’s a symbol of Made in Italy and should be taken a bit more seriously.
The turning point: bottles (with twine)
In 1860 Cleto Chiarli began to bottle the Lambrusco that he produced for his tavern in Modena – previously it had only been available in bulk. He established the basic production techniques of this particular wine, which only became sparkling by re-fermenting in bottles. At the Exposition Universelle in Paris of 1900, where no one had ever tasted Lambrusco, Cleto Chiarli & Figli was recognized by the jury with the prestigious “Honorable Mention” for the quality of its wine, the bottle, the label, and the cork tied with twine.
In the 1950s the company was the first to produce Lambrusco using the Charmat method, switching from the second fermentation in bottles to the faster and cheaper alternative in autoclaves. In the 1970s Lambrusco attained worldwide success, one that was linked more to large volumes than to quality. In 1980 Chiarli decided to relaunch its image and presented Vecchia Modena, a novelty in the Lambrusco panorama, which was distinguished by the fact that it was made with pure Sorbara grapes, and by its label, a faithful reproduction of the historic wine awarded in Paris in 1900. The price was the highest on the market, and this wine is still highly regarded today, considered one of the 100 best wines in the world under $30 by renowned journalist James Suckling.
Rubino del Cerro wine by Venturini Baldini (ph D. Lovatti)
Strength in unity
Despite the big numbers, Chiarli is still a family-run business, an exception in the lands between Modena and Reggio Emilia where 95% of Lambrusco grapes are sent to winery cooperatives, the true source of the transformation of those 27,000 acres of vineyards that include all the varieties and denominations. The most important cooperative, which today groups an impressive 1,500 winegrowers in Reggio, Modena, and Bologna for a total of 12,600 acres of vineyards, is Cantine Riunite, founded in 1950 as a consortium of some small wineries in the area of Reggio. Eager to take a step forward in production and marketing, Cantine Riunite was established in 2008, merging with the six CIV cooperatives of Modena and acquiring two more wineries in the provinces of Reggio Emilia and Modena. The first significant development for the ever-evolving consortium came in 2016 when it opened an e-commerce site for online sales through Gruppo Italiano Vini. To celebrate its history, last year it presented 1950, a Lambrusco Reggiano intended for the general public, available in both dry and sweet versions.
Denny Bini, Venturini Baldini (ph D. Lovatti)
Grapes for the Countess
Staying within the area of Reggio Emilia, moving to Quattro Castella, and toward Colli di Scandiano and Canossa, we reach one of the most picturesque Lambrusco production areas. In these lands during the 11th century, the legendary Matilde di Canossa facilitated the cultivation of vines, aware of the economic benefits she would derive from them. A magnificent villa built in Rocolo that dates back to 1670 is surrounded by approximately 320 acres of vineyards, woods, trails, and natural meadows, including the vineyards of Venturini Baldini. The company was founded in 1976 by Carlo Venturini and Beatrice Baldini and has long been a symbol of quality in Reggio Emilia. It has gained new life in recent years with a change of ownership and the revival of its most famous label, Rubino del Cerro, a high-quality sparkling Lambrusco Reggiano Dry, perfect for the classic pairing with tagliatelle al ragù.
Back to basics with boldness
And yet, it’s the charm of Sorbara, with its ancient rose color and fascinating transparencies, that has truly enthralled new groups of Lambrusco wine lovers. It’s come to the point where today we can enjoy numerous expressions of this wine thanks to the dedication of many small winemakers who are experiencing a return to the “ancestral” method of second fermentation in bottles. Right in the heart of the Sorbara countryside, in a fertile land where the Secchia and Panaro rivers approach each other, nearly touching, the sandy alluvial soils give rise to a unique Lambrusco. Christian Bellei of Cantina Della Volta has decided to enhance it by producing wines according to the Classic Method, just like they do in Champagne, even adventuring with long aging times on the lees, up to more than seven years. But his flagship wine is still Trentasei. With its aroma of flowers, this Lambrusco di Sorbara has changing nuances including roses, red currants, and orange peel, with that tangy elegance and brightness that only great sparkling wines can express.
This article was originally published in June 2020 and has been updated.
Cover photo R. Lettieri