The people of Catania look forward to it all year. On the main days of the festival, from February 3rd to the 5th, the city comes to a standstill to celebrate Saint Agatha of Sicily, patron saint of Catania. The unique event blends devotion, folklore, and tradition. The Christian festival attracts devotees and tourists from all over the world. Each year, a million people are expected to follow the relics through the lava stone streets of the historic center for a procession that can last as long as 40 hours. Among candles, flowers and prayers, Catanians loudly profess their devotion. To brighten up these cold winter days, in the period leading up to the festivities that honor the saint, the locals usually consume imaginative and colorful desserts: minnuzze di Sant’Agata, mini cassatas with an unmistakable hemispherical shape, and Olivette, a soft almond-paste dough flavored with liqueur and flavorings which, by tradition, are consumed during the first few days of February.
The legend
Minnuzze di Sant’Agata allude to the Christian martyr’s breasts, which were cut off as part of the torture inflicted by Quintianius, who had become infatuated with her. But olivette, on the other hand, are linked to another important event in the saint’s life. According to one legend, as she was being brought to trial before the cruel proconsul of Catania, she stopped to tie her sandal. As soon as her foot touched the ground, an olive tree began to grow, bearing its fruits. After her martyrdom, the citizens adopted the habit of collecting the olives produced by the tree to preserve or offer them. According to another version, Agatha came across a barren olive tree by chance. When she touched it, the tree miraculously began to produce olives. Despite the many tales surrounding these events, one fact is certain: both the minnuzze and the olivette are foods linked to the ancestral rituals of fertility and the regeneration of nature, especially in February, when Sicily’s blooming almond trees already signal the arrival of spring.
The ancient recipe
Not everyone knows that up until the 18th century popular devotion to Saint Agatha was also widespread in the Sicilian capital of Palermo before the cult of Saint Rosalia took over. At the monastery of Santa Caterina in Palermo, for example, olivette were prepared by the Dominican nuns for some female boarding students. After years of research, Maria Oliveri, who is passionate about history and anthropology, recovered and cataloged ancient convent recipes (including that of the olivette) in her book I segreti del chiostro.
Olivette di Sant’Agata
This is the original recipe from the monastery of Santa Caterina, recovered by Maria Oliveri.
Ingredients for 20 olivette – 1/3 lb. peeled almonds – 3/4 cup granulated sugar – 1 tablespoon rum or strega liqueur – 1/4 teaspoon of powered green food coloring
Instructions
Pour the sugar into a saucepan filled with water. Bring to a boil at low heat. As soon as the sugar dissolves, turn off the stove and pour in the chopped almonds. Stir vigorously and add in the food coloring. Continue mixing until the green becomes even. Add the rum, stirring constantly. Allow the mixture to cool on the work surface. Work it with your hands and form 20 little balls, aiming for a slightly elongated olive shape. Roll the olivette in a saucer filled with sugar to coat them.
Bakeries in Sicily where Olivette di Sant’Agata can be found
Catania
• Bar Prestipino – Piazza Duomo 9
• I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza – Via Gabriele D’Annunzio 216/218
• Pasticceria Quaranta – Piazza Mancini Battaglia 17/20
• Pasticceria Savia – Via Etnea 302/304
• Pasticceria Spinella – Via Etnea 292/298
• Pasticceria Truglio – Via Giaconia 11
Siracusa
Monzù Ortigia – Piazza Minerva 6
Palermo
Dolceria del Monastero di Santa Caterina – Piazza Bellini