Carne salada (salty meat) was the first Trentino dish to receive the De.co, a municipal denomination of origin of the towns of Upper Garda (Riva del Garda, Arco, Nago-Torbole, Dro, Tenno, Ledro and Dren). In fact, it’s now a food tradition present throughout the region, which has spread thanks to the intuition of two Tenno families who have started to market it everywhere. A few kilometers away, in Comano Terme you can find who, with his Carne Salada, won the conviviality prize for UPVIVIUM: Cristian Rossi del Don Pedro, who reveals the ten rules to prepare it perfectly at home.
One. Review the story
First of all, it’s good to remember that it’s a historical dish, a traditional dish of the Trentino festivals, which already appears in manuscripts from 1400. In the twentieth century we find it instead as a main course in Trentino cuisine in the manual "La nostra cucina, piatti vecchi e nuovi alla trentina" by Anna Lucia and Carlo Alberto Bauer, then again in the chapter "I segreti per preparare una buona carne salada" in the text "L'antico focolare" by Baroness Giulia Turco. Literature aside, Cristian tells us that "among our grandparents it was widespread, especially in winter, while today at home almost nobody does it anymore, and it has become more of a business".
Two. The choice of cut
The choice of which piece of meat is decisive: whether it is rump or magatello of adult cows, better if of the Resian breed, from the local valley of the same name. Elsewhere it’s also found with horse meat, especially in the area of Rovereto, pork or veal, even in the smoked version, but the real salted meat is made with beef.
Three. Cleaning the meat
Carne salada is lean meat, which always needs to be tender. For this reason, cleaning it properly from all its fat, tendon parts and nerves is essential. After carefully completing this step, you can proceed with salting, hence the name.
Four. The secret mix of aromas
As with all respectable recipes, there is never one single version. So, again, there are endless variations of the salt and flavoring mixture to prepare the salted meat. Cristian Rossi prepares it like this: with salt, garlic, pepper, bay leaves, juniper berries, sage, and rosemary, finely chopped and then sprinkled on the piece of meat still whole. And it's this mix that won him the prize. In the past, of course, it served as a method of preserving meat and not for the pleasure of the palate like it is today.
Five. The meat massage
At this point, our piece of salted meat needs to be a little pampered. It’s important you massage the cut with the amount of right pressure so that the mix of salt and flavors can penetrate it best. The important thing is that everything is done in a traditional and artisan way, without the use of any syringe, because in this preparation it is still working with your hands that makes the difference.
Six. Rest time
Now the meat must rest so it absorbs all the aromas, for a time ranging from 20 days minimum, as Cristian Rossi does, to 30-40 maximum. In the past, it was kept in jars, while today stainless steel containers are used more than anything else, especially for regulatory purposes. A weight is placed on top, a wooden top or a stone, so that the flavors can best penetrate the meat.
Seven. Don't forget about this one.
During the day of rest, you need to remember your meat, without leaving it alone by continuing to massage it approximately every two or three days. Today there are also those who use a special machine, which allows you to turn the meat correctly. Afterwards, it can be stored vacuum sealed in the fridge.
Eight. Beware of water
The number one enemy of salty meat is water, which, as a bacterial carrier, mustn’t be used during storage. For this you have to be careful if it appears and promptly eliminate it by turning the meat several times.
Nine. How to eat it
As you may already know, salty meat can be eaten both cooked and raw. In the first case it is usually combined with fasoi, beans, such as the pavone, rare, large and precious beans found in the Cavrasto and Bleggio Superiore area (try those of the producer Daniele Grazzi); or with Broccolo di Torbole, a Slow Food Presidium grown on Lake Garda. In the second case on the other hand, the salty meat can be enjoyed on its own or, as Cristian Rossi proposes, with porcini mushrooms and flakes of Grana Trentino. Alternatively, at Don Pedro you can also find it on the pizza Carne Salada Selezione Cristian Rossi (his brand that guarantees a selection of quality products), with tomato sauce, fiordilatte, raw salty meat, rocket and Trentino grana cheese flakes. "One of the most successful pizzas that signifies us!"
Ten. Matching with wine
To accompany a plate of salty meat must be a glass of local red wine, indeed the region offers a wide variety of choice. Our chef's advice is with a glass of Marzemino Bottega dei Vinai, while in the past we used more Merlot. The important thing is that it is a red wine that has herbaceous hints, so that the aromas of salty meat can be picked up, because in the end, it’s is all about the herbs.