In a different environment, it would be a different story. But fortunately, the weather conditions in Bassa Parmense, with its thick fog, still air and temperatures that fluctuate between -2 degrees at night and +5 degrees in sunlight from October to February, guarantee a maturing process between 10 and 14 months, perfect for the "king of cured meats", as defined in its parts the Culatello di Zibello. That is, the muscular part of the pig’s hind limbs, without rind and bone, matured on the shoreline areas of Po and Bassa near Parma.
The kingdom of Zibello is a little more than 1,800 people in a little town further north in the ducal province and the capital of a territory where His Majesty Culatello reigned unchallenged for centuries. At least since 1735, when for the first time the name of this pear-shaped sausage, rich in proteins and unique taste appears in official documentation. The birthplace of ham and aged cheese, culatello, to which Europe has long recognized the Protected Designation of Origin, is also protected by a consortium of about twenty companies. These companies operate not only in the "capital", but also in Busseto, Polesine Parmense, Soragna, Roccabianca, San Secondo, Sissa and Colorno.
Traditional preparation
The Consorzio del Culatello di Zibello itself has established that the procedure can only take place in its own area and exclusively during the period between October and February, when the Bassa is wrapped up in cold and fog. It’s for this reason during this period this part of the meat obtained from the thigh of adult pigs, reared using traditional methods, can best be processed. Removing the rind and fat from the meat is done after removing the thigh, with a special knife, not far from the femoral-tibio-routelean joint and almost clinging to the femur, without cutting right up to the bottom. This operation of removing the pork rind and fat is carried out hot, to ensure the meat experiences only a slight drop in temperature so that the necessary dehydration and cooling can happen naturally. A removal of fat process that offers the producer a certain margin of safety for the preservation of the meat before and during salting, which accurately favors the penetration of salt.
Pear shaped thigh
Afterwards, the culatello is trimmed or groomed, removing the femur and exuberant fat, but leaving a certain thickness to keep the underlying meat softer and less salty. Finally, the muscular portion above the castelletto is trimmed and the pear shape, typical of culatello, becomes that memorable wonder for salami lovers.
Homemade
It doesn’t end here. The cutting operations are then followed by salting, even in a homemade way, as seen in parts of the Bassa of those who just can't do without culatello and produce it in the countryside. Besides, the climate allows it, and it’s enough to take advantage of the typical fog weather of northern Parma for this renowned king of homemade salami. When produced industrially on the other hand, culatello can even be enjoyed during the summer, using cold rooms that have the critical responsibility of reproducing the same winter cold climate of the Bassa.
Hot salting
No matter whether it’s industrial or artisan, the salting process of culatello must be done hot, that is to say on freshly slaughtered meat, using 3.3% salt in relation to the weight of the meat, which in about ten days absorbs a very low amount, equal to 2.5-2.6% of the weight. After the first 2-3 days of salting, then the culatello is massaged and possibly resalted, but generally the salt absorption is less than 2.8% of its weight.
Culatello Empire: facts and emotion
After a brief rest the culatello is washed, dried, and covered, to which follows the maturation process from six to twelve months, or a little less if produced at home, and mainly subject to climatic conditions. The drying temperature, progressively increasing, goes from 14 to 18 degrees, with humidity at 75-85% to ensure a slow dehydration and avoid the formation of a superficial crust with the permanence of a high level of internal humidity. The maturing process, however, is carried out at 14°-15°C and relative humidity of 80-85%. After this, the culatello is freed of its ropes that enclose it and is put under running tap water and brushed with care. Soaked in dry white or red wine for two or three days, the culatello is finally stripped of its skin and ready to be enjoyed, perhaps accompanied by fresh butter curls and a little bread.
Following this slow and natural process, every year the Consortium for the Protection of Culatello di Zibello introduces to the world market a little more than 60 thousand forms that boast PDO recognition. Not a very high number, which confirms just how difficult it is to imitate a product unquestionably linked to its territory. Watch out for imitations.