The ciriola is a small piece of bread, characterized by a soft heart and crunchy golden breastplate. Versatile and cheap, it’s great for preparing rustic sandwiches – with porchetta it’s to die for. But it’s also wonderful with other meats and salumi.
How it got its name
There are two theories around the origin of the name ciriola. The first is related to its similarity with small eels, the ciriole, which once splashed happily in the waters of the Tiber River. The other is based on the Latin origin of the term; in ancient Latin we find the word “cereola” (candle) or the adjective “cereolus,” because of the amber color of beeswax candles.
Years of history in a sandwich
Ciriola bread is a must on tables throughout Lazio, as all Roman grandparents know. They would put it out beside generous portions of traditional main courses, so everyone could sop up the sauce. Not only at home, but also at work; ciriola is substantial enough for workers’ lunch break, giving them the boost they need to make it through a day of hard physical labor. Going back to the years to the Second World War, the ciriola was listed among the rationed foods that the fascist government guaranteed to the people as a right. It was inexpensive fare that quickly staved off hunger, which was always lurking in those dark times. Unfortunately, nowadays, the ciriola has almost entirely disappeared in favor of shapes that are easier to pack, such as the rosetta, a typical bun from Northern Italy.
Ciriola recipe
Ingredients
For the biga pre-fermentation: 7 cups soft wheat flour type 0 W 360, 2 cups water and ½ oz fresh brewer’s yeast
For the dough: 7 cups soft wheat flour type 0, 3 cups water, 3 tbs salt
Method
In the case of ciriola, indirect baking is used, so you need to prepare the biga, a pre-mixed dough obtained by mixing water, flour and fresh yeast. For the starter, dissolve the fresh brewer's yeast in water at room temperature, add the flour and knead the dough. Let it rest for 12 to 18 hours in a cool place, about 65°F, covered with a damp cloth.
After the recommended time, add the water, flour and salt to the biga in the quantities indicated above for the dough. Work well until you get a smooth and uniform dough, let it rest for about an hour, in a warm room always covered with a damp cloth.
Portion the dough into 3.5-oz rolls. Roll them out with a rolling pin and then shape them into a sort of football, bulging in the middle and pointed at the ends. Place the ciriole well spaced out in baking trays with greaseproof paper. Cut them lengthwise and let them rest for another 30 minutes.
Just before baking, give them a light sprinkling of flour and then bake in a preheated oven at 355°F for 20 minutes. Small secret, put a small pot of water in the oven while baking and remove it 5 minutes before taking out the ciriole, the bread will be crispy on the outside and moist inside.