Here we are in Torbole, a town on the Trentino bank of Lake Garda, where a whitefish saltimbocca preparation awaits us. A few steps from the beach and the center of town is a charming little square that is home to Casa Beust, one of the town’s oldest and most beloved buildings. Paola Olivieri, 75 years old, has lived here since she got married. Now she and her husband run a small residence for travelers, but she has held many jobs over her lifetime, including restaurateur in her in-laws’ hotel.
“When I got married, I didn’t cook at all, but I was interested in learning about it,” she says. “Luckily, my husband’s constructive criticism encouraged me to improve. Then I had two children, and with age came the need to eat healthier. So I began experimenting, simplifying, and adapting, and now I only cook for fun. I love surprising my guests with something different each time, sometimes related to a theme, or maybe something humorous or even a little provocative."
Paola Olivieri (ph Jacopo Salvi)
“One evening, long before vegetable noodles became a thing, I invited over a friend who adores pasta and cooked him ‘zucchini spaghetti’ — I can still see the look on his face when he learned it was only vegetables. Cooking has changed a lot since 40 years ago, and it’s only right to adapt it to new needs. My mother-in-law’s recipe notebook is still an inspiration, but it needs some adjustments. These days we’re more careful about health and wellness. For example, I had to give up sugar, but I adore desserts, so I do my best to change the traditional recipes and find alternative solutions.”
Paola's mother-in-law’s recipe notebook (photo Jacopo Salvi)
Paola shares with us her delicious recipe for whitefish saltimbocca: “I have a trusted fisherman who gets me whitefish. He catches them about 10 miles from Torbole. Usually, I fix them as a seafood duo along with perch and serve them with wild greens. I really enjoy gathering greens, and I’m learning to find them with help from my 94-year-old mother, who knows them all. Then I experiment, making purées and pestos with gnocchi stuffed with dandelion greens, wildflowers, arugula or nettle, which are great."
Nonna Paola’s Whitefish Saltimbocca recipe
Serves 6
Ingredients:
6 small whitefish (or 3 large)
12 pancetta or bacon slices, 12 sage leaves
extra-virgin olive oil
wild greens or spinach
Photo: Jacopo Salvi
Method:
Fillet and skin the fish, cover each fillet with a slice of panceta or bacon and 1 sage leaf, then fasten together with a wooden skewer. Drizzle a pan with olive oil. Cook starting with the bacon side down. When the pancetta or bacon starts to turn crispy, turn the fish over, gently adjusting the toothpick, and continue cooking on the other side. The saltimbocca is ready when the fish is golden. Serve with blanched wild greens.
Editors' Note: This article appeared in issue 1 of the international edition of La Cucina Italiana.