Risotto al salto is yet another recipe birthed from Italy's waste-free philosophy. Al salto means “jump,” a reference to how the rice is sautéed, and this dish graces the menu at countless old-school Milanese trattorias.
The dish is usually made from risotto alla Milanese, the golden saffron-flavored risotto representative of the Lombard capital, but the preparation applies to most leftover risotto. The rice is combined with an egg, which acts as a binder, then flattened tray and cooled overnight in the fridge. When prepared the next day, the rice is placed into a sautépan and shaped into a pancake. The overnight repose intensifies the flavors, and when cooking, the rice pancake forms a crispy golden crust that adds an irresistible texture.
Our risotto al salto recipe follows, to which we add a silky finish inspired by the Valle d'Aosta: fonduta, the Italian take on fondue made with Fontina. Pour some over the crispy rice for unadulterated palatal bliss. The trickiest part? The flip. So just take extra care to make sure it's otherwise the pancake could go kaput.
Though beware – in the future, you just might find yourself making more risotto than necessary for the sole purpose of having some leftover to flip.
Risotto al Salto (Crispy Rice) With Fonduta
Serves 4
Skill Level: Intermediate
Time: 1 hour and 30 minutes + 12 hours cooling
Gluten-free
Ingredients:
For the risotto al salto
6 cups chicken broth
1 1⁄2 cups carnaroli rice
1 cup dry white wine
4 oz. Grana Padano DOP, grated
1 shallot
1 large egg yolk
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
¾ stick unsalted butter
salt – black truffle
For the fonduta
10 oz. Fontina DOP
⅓ cup milk
Method:
Bring the broth to a boil in a medium saucepan, remove from heat and keep warm. Cut the shallot into 1⁄4" cubes. Sweat the shallot. To sweat the shallot, heat 1 Tbsp. oil and 1 Tbsp. butter in a large pot over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and stir frequently until the shallot is soft and not browned.
Add 1⁄2 cup wine, then add the rice, mixing continuously for 5 minutes or until it is translucent, then add the remaining wine. Season with salt if necessary. When the liquid is absorbed, cover the rice with the hot broth and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, stirring continuously. Stir in 1⁄4-stick butter and the Grana Padano.
Spread the risotto onto a baking sheet and let cool. When cooled, add the egg yolk as it will help to bind the risotto. Let cool overnight in the refrigerator.
For the fonduta, dice the Fontina into 1⁄4" cubes. Melt the Fontina and milk in a bain-marie (double-boiler) over low heat taking care to not bring to a boil.
Remove the rice from the refrigerator. Heat 1 Tbsp. butter in a nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Spread the rice evenly in the skillet, press it until compact, and form the shape of an omelet.
Cook until a golden crust forms. Flip the rice onto the serving plate and top with the fonduta. Garnish with truffle shavings.
Photo: Riccardo Lettieri
Recipe: Davide Brovelli
Photography: Riccardo Lettieri
Styling: Beatrice Prada