Giacomo Casanova (1725 - 1798) wore many hats: writer, adventurer, poet, spy, scientist, diplomat, and lothario. A fixture on Venice’s Carnevale scene, he was also a refined gourmet. His memoirs mention many of his favorite dishes, one of his most preferred being a macaroni pie “prepared by a good Neapolitan cook” that he found perfect for days of celebration and joy. During his time, the tomato had not yet become ubiquitous and pasta was also seasoned with sugar and honey. This recipe is from Vincenzo Corrado’s Il cuoco galante (The Gallant Cook), an 18th-century Neapolitan repertoire.
Maccheroni di Casanova (or Neapolitan Pie)
Serves 4
Time 1 hour
Ingredients:
12 oz. paccheri pasta
8 oz. capon breast (or chicken)
5 oz. fresh cream
5 oz. pork loin
3 oz. cooked ham, diced
⅔ stick butter
3 large egg yolks
1 shallot
beef broth
sage - rosemary
cinnamon powder
peanut oil
salt and pepper
Method:
Chop the shallot.
Chop the chicken and pork. Heat the butter in a wide pan and wilt the chopped shallot with 1 sprig each of sage and rosemary for 1 minute. Add the minced meat and the diced ham, and brown over high heat for 10 minutes, stirring.
Combine 1½ qt. Each of beef broth and water, and bring to a boil. Add salt and cook the paccheri until al dente.
Mix the cream with the egg yolks, a pinch of salt, a minced one of pepper, and a sprinkle of cinnamon.
Drain the paccheri and place in the pan with meat, then add the cream and egg yolk mixture.
Stir over the heat, until it takes on the consistency of a creamy sauce.
Fry a handful of sage leaves in plenty of peanut oil for 1 minute, then drain on paper
from the kitchen.
Distribute the paccheri into bowls, finishing each plate with some fried sage leaves and a sprinkle of cinnamon, and serve.
Recipe Joëlle Néderlants
Photography Riccardo Lettieri
Styling Beatrice Prada