Pappa al Pomodoro is a dish that exemplifies Italian simplicity. Composed of very few ingredients, it manages to deliver in heartiness and complexity. Fresh Tuscan EVOO, hand crushed peeled San Marzano tomatoes, torn basil, aromatic garlic, and stale artisanal bread sing together in the form of a rustic, comforting, porridge-like bread soup. Micro-variations in different regions of Tuscany and household to household are abundant, which further amplifies pappa's respect and adoration.
Nicholas Coleman, oleologist and co-founder of olive oil subscription company Grove and Vine prepares a version that he learned from his mentor, Nadia Gasperini. Unlike many other interpretations of pappa al pomodoro, Nick's is a three-day operation. This may sound cumbersome, but it is not entirely hands on, yielding an end result that is well worth the effort, patience, and care. Adopted from another Italian mentor, the inclusion of an apple, a somewhat unlikely ingredient, is key in balancing out the acidity of the dish, while imparting a subtle sweetness!
Pappa al Pomodoro
Serves 4
Ingredients:
Grove & Vine + Action Bronson's Extra Virgin Olive Oil (or other high quality extra virgin olive oil)
Tuscan Bread or Rustic Ciabatta (300 gr)
Peeled San Marzano Tomatoes (500 gr)
5 Garlic Cloves
2 Large Spindles of Basil
1 Liter Water
1 Apple
Salt and Pepper
Optional: Parmigiano-Reggiano and/or a very fresh egg yolk.
Method:
The day before you cook this dish, thinly slice the bread and lay it out overnight to stale. In order to absorb the soup’s liquids, the bread should be completely dry.
The next day, mince 5 garlic cloves using a chef’s knife on a cutting board.
Pour the opened can of tomatoes into a large mixing bowl. Using your bare hands, gently crush the tomatoes. The sauce should be rustic and not too smooth.
Tear the basil by hand into small pieces and set aside in a bowl.
Pour 8 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil into a large pot. Over medium heat add the minced garlic. Add the crushed tomatoes as soon as the garlic turns slightly translucent, then add salt and pepper and for 25 minutes rapidly simmer, stirring regularly. (If the garlic burns and becomes discolored, stop and start again with fresh oil and garlic.)
After 15 minutes, peel an apple and then after coring, grate into the bubbling sauce. The apple’s natural sugars cut the tomato’s acidity, while the pectin thickens it. It’s an Italian grandmother trick that adds a pleasing, zesty undercurrent. Continue simmering, stirring occasionally for another 10 minutes.
While the tomatoes simmer, warm 1 liter of water in a separate pot. At the conclusion of the final 10-minute simmer, when the sauce looks together, incorporate the warm water, return the sauce to a gentle boil for a few minutes, and then remove from the heat. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper.
Using your hands coarsely break the stale bread into the hot soup. Then use a wooden spoon to continually stir, stab, and mash the bread until it is evenly distributed. The texture should resemble baby food!
Lastly, incorporate a lot of the freshly ripped basil and give it one final aggressive stir. Sample and adjust to produce a dish that tastes equally of oil, garlic, tomato, and herbs.
Let rest in the refrigerator for a night or two. The dish will continue to amalgamate.
Lastly, gently reheat and again mix/mash. Then take it to the plate and finish with a green perma-layer of raw, fresh extra virgin olive oil, freshly ripped basil, and if you choose, a generous dose of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Optional: to add a hearty, rich, and texturally rewarding component, stir in a raw fresh egg yolk. It will partially cook as it gets incorporated into the hot soup.