Anything that has a Sicilian history always speaks to me in a special way because it makes me think of my Sicilian grandmother, as well as to reflect back on the time that I have spent in Sicily over the years, and my love for most things Sicilian.
Even though marsala has roots on the island of Sicily, where the wine was invented and continues to be produced, I only remember seeing veal marsala on a menu in Italy twice: once in Florence about 25 years ago and then on a more recent trip in a trattoria in Rome. Not once have I encountered it in Sicily.
In the U.S., you’d be hard-pressed to find an Italian restaurant without some variation on marsala, either chicken or veal. It is sometimes listed as scallopine, similar to the French term “escalope,” or thinly sliced. The term itself gives rise to the idea that French chefs in Sicily may be responsible for the origins of the dish, a background that remains disputed.
One of the reasons I am so fond of veal marsala is because it is easy to prepare and can feature proteins even beyond veal or chicken. Turkey or even a dense white fish are also great options.
The most recent menu at my New York City restaurant Leopard des Artistes has a grilled veal chop served with roasted peppers (Molto Americano and perfect for the summer) and marsala sauce.
The version below is a very simple and highly satisfying dish to create at home.
Veal Marsala
Serves 3-4
Ingredients
1 lb. Veal scallops, pounded thin
2 Tbsp. Flour
Salt and pepper to taste
1 Tbsp. Olive oil
1 Tbsp. butter
2/3 cup Marsala wine*
2 cups cubed cremini or porcini mushrooms
2 cloves smashed garlic
Method
Using a meat mallet, tenderize the veal. Dredge the meat, season with salt and pepper, and shake off the excess flour.
Heat olive oil and butter in a large skillet and brown the veal on both sides. Remove from the pan and set aside.
In the sauté pan, add the garlic and mushrooms. Saute until the mushrooms are tender and cooked. Put the veal back into the pan along with any extra juices to reheat.
Add the Marsala wine and simmer until the sauce starts to thicken.
Place the veal and mushrooms, if using, on a serving plate. Heat the sauce and adjust to the proper consistency, adding a touch of water if necessary, and drizzle over the meat. Garnish with picked thyme and serve with toasted bread, if desired.
*Chef’s tip: I use a blend of 70% dry to 30% sweet marsala, and I always buy real marsala from Sicily. There is a lot of American “Marsala" on the market and while such bottles are less expensive, marsala from Sicily is superior.
I blend the dry and sweet wines in order to have a sauce with a better balance.