Celebrate ‘The Feast of the Seven Fishes’ with Baccalà Fritto alla Romana

Christmas Eve, also called the Christmas Vigil in the Roman Catholic tradition or "La Vigilia de Natale" in Italian, is the biggest day for fish markets in Italy, and the most magical night of the year! A meatless meal consisting entirely of seafood dishes. A sacred evening where Italian-Americans gather to share in the traditional celebration of 'The Feast of the Seven Fishes.' 

Families like my own spend hours cleaning and prepping pounds and pounds of seafood, and the smell of fried calamari and baccalà fill the entire house. A ritual that has been handed down from generation-to-generation over the centuries. It all started in the late 19th and early 20th century, when many Southern Italian immigrants migrated to the United States. Fish was a staple part of their diet, and since it was a deeply rooted practice in the Catholic church to fast and abstain from meat on the vigil night of December 24^th, they continued the long-standing tradition.  

It was also customary to end the celebration by attending midnight mass for the birth of baby Jesus, a tradition that blends the sacred and secular, the old world and the new. Every year at midnight, after feasting for hours on a banquet of fish, we head over to midnight mass at our church, where Italian-Americans like ourselves fill the pews with overstuffed bellies, struggling to keep their eyes open while the entire church fills with the aroma of more fried fish. 

        So why seven fish, you ask? Traditionally, the number seven is said to reflect the seven sacraments of the Catholic Church, although some families tend to celebrate with 9, 11, or even up to as many as 13 different types of aquatic species. Each family has their own way of preparing the feast. From appetizers and pasta, to the main course, Italian-Americans take pride in each fish-based dish of tradition.

          In my home, after indulging in the annual grand seafood extravaganza, we have lots of laughs trying to figure out exactly how many fish we had, and whether the cold seafood salad counts as one dish, or if we should count each variety of fish as a course. Baccalà, shrimp and calamari are staple menu items for our Christmas Eve dinner and have become my mom's specialties, which she has tailored over the years to our family favorites, some of which have become hot topics of debate. For instance, we prepare baccalà two ways – fried and as a salad. Same goes for the calamari and shrimp, which are both incorporated into my mom's cold seafood salad, but the calamari is also fried and the shrimp is also served as a cold shrimp cocktail – so should they be counted just once or twice? Most years, we lose count and just keep making fish until the table is full. The most important ingredient is being together! We savor the time we share, like we savor all the seafood my mom has spent hours preparing for us. It's the best part of Christmas and my favorite meal of the whole year. 

Italians love to celebrate the holidays with an "abbondanza" (abundance) of food, so if you’re a seafood fanatic like me, then you'll have to agree: It's the most delicious spread well worth indulging in, and no matter how far I live from my family, it is a tradition I will never miss out on. My Nonna used to tell me I was born in March, and I am a Pisces for a reason. I was born to LOVE fish! While most people can't wait to open presents on Christmas morning, I can't wait to feast on the plethora of seafood. I love it so much that I even eat the leftover fried fish cold the next morning, especially the fried baccalà! 

   In my home on Christmas morning, after opening all the presents, we always toast the holiday by popping open a bottle of prosecco, cutting into a Pandoro or Panettone, and snacking on the leftover fish from the night before, while we call our relatives in Italy to wish them a "Buon Natale!"

Baccalà, prepared just like my Nonna Agata made it, or 'alla Romana' style, is a must-have. It consists simply of battered, deep-fried salted cod fillets. A soft, savory fish on the inside with a crusty, fried batter on the outside makes for a sumptuous combination. Baccalà is dried cod that has been preserved in salt. It's an old tradition dating back to the days of no refrigeration, when salt was used to preserve food. We prepare baccalà two ways on Christmas Eve. Battered and fried, and boiled then tossed in a simple olive oil, lemon, parsley and crushed red pepper dressing. They have both become staple menu items for our yearly feast, and they’re both absolutely delicious. Fried baccalà is best served hot, but we love it even served cold the next morning. 

         Many Italian delicacy markets and specialty stores sell it around the holidays. Eager Italians will flock to the store a few days before Christmas to buy pounds and pounds of baccalà at a time, then rush home to begin the age-old process of re-hydrating the cod. Desalting is a relatively painless labor of love that we have embraced for decades. 

           You must soak the baccalà for at least three days in cold water and change the water at least twice a day (in the morning and at night), or else the fish will taste too salty. And since time is of the essence around the holidays, the busiest time of the year, you’ll want to make sure you buy the baccalà a few days in advance, so it can be properly soaked. I also recommend cutting it into long slender fillets to speed up the process of softening and desalting the fish. You may use a large sauce pot, as long as each piece is completely submerged in the water. Once the baccalà has soaked and desalted for three days, allow it to sit in a colander and drain any excess water. Before battering, be sure each fillet is patted dry thoroughly with a paper towel to remove as much water as possible. You can season the flour and or beaten egg mixture with a sprinkle of garlic powder and dried parsley flakes to add a touch of flavor, but that depends on personal preference. Don’t salt the batter or the baccalà once you’ve fried it, because it is pleasantly salty already. Vegetable oil works well for deep-frying, and you may use a large frying pan – just be sure to not fill the pan completely with oil (halfway will do). Heat the oil well before frying. For the complete recipe, keep reading!

Happy Feast of the Seven Fishes!

Buon Natale to all, and to all a Buona Notte!

('Twas' the Night Before Christmas', Italian Feast of the Seven Fish rendition) 

'Twas' the night before Christmas and all through the house,
no meat had been eaten, not even an ounce.
When what to my wondering eyes should appear,
but a table filled with seven different fish;
baked, fried, and seared
From shrimp to baccala, lobster, and smelt,
to crab, calamari, and linguini with clams
Buon Natale to all Italian-Americans near and far,
now feast away, feast away, feast away all!'

Fried Baccala alla Romana Style by Daniela Savone

Ingredients:
12  2x3" soaked, desalted baccalà fillets 
2 cups of all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, beaten 
Vegetable oil 
Garlic powder
Dry parsley leaves
Fresh lemon
Fresh ground black pepper
Chopped fresh parsley 

Method:
Cut the dry salted baccalà into 2-3" fillets. Soak them in cold water in a large sauce pot for 3 days. Make sure the baccalà is completely submerged in the water; change the water 2x daily. 
Drain the baccalà in a colander. Then pat each fillet thoroughly with a paper towel and dry any excess water before battering. 
Beat the eggs in a large bowl; add flour to a separate bowl and  season with garlic powder and dry parsley flakes (optional). 
Heat the vegetable oil over medium-low heat.
Batter each fillet. First dip them into the egg mixture (allowing the excess egg to drip off). Then pat with flour on both sides. 
Fry each battered fillet for 4-5 minutes, or until golden-brown on each side. 
Transfer to a flat dish lined with paper towels to absorb excess oil.
Serve hot with fresh lemon, freshly ground black pepper and freshly chopped parsley.