Baccalà alla Romana is a staple dish derived from the Jewish-Roman cuisine typically made with dried, salted cod, potatoes, and tomatoes, prepared especially on Christmas Eve or on Fridays during Lent, when Roman Catholics abstain from eating meat.
While growing up, most kids I knew ate pizza for dinner on these Fridays, while I was forced to eat my nonna's baccalà. Every Friday, when I got home from school I could smell my nonna cooking baccalà from the driveway. I hated the sight and smell of this white, powdery, scary, stinky fish. At the time, I didn't understand or appreciate the tradition and beauty of this dish.
My nonna brought it with her from the Old Country and continued to make it every Friday for Lent so her Italian American family would someday appreciate the tradition and special meaning it had for her growing up as a child in Italy in "la cucina povera."
Today, baccalà is considered a dish to be consumed only on special occasions because of the long preparation that goes into the desalting process. You must desalt the cod for at least three days, changing the water twice a day. Cut the baccalà into smaller 2 to 3-inch pieces and completely immerse it in a large basin of cold water, then allow it to soak in the refrigerator. Even though the fish has been soaked it is impossible to remove all the salt, so there is no need to add additional salt to the dish. Soaking and changing the water frequently for three days makes the cod plump and revitalized.
After my nonna passed away a little over six years ago, my family continued to carry on this tradition in her honor. Today, while I stand over the stove stewing baccalà and potatoes and take in its aromatic scent I am reminded of my childhood, of my nonna, and of all those Friday nights I sat forced to eat baccalà in her basement cucina, and I can't help but smile.
Baccala alla romana. Credit: Daniela Savone
My Nonna's Baccalà alla Romana Recipe
Serves 4
Prep and Cook Time: 45 minutes
Ingredients
1.5lbs. Baccalà, soaked and desalted; cut into 2 or 3-inch pieces
5-6 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled, halved lengthwise, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces 1 large yellow onion, quartered
28oz. can (good quality) San Marzano whole plum peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup dry white cooking wine
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/2 tsp. chili flakes, adjusted to taste
3 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
3 to 4 fresh bay leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Method
1. In a wide saucepan heat olive oil over medium-high, add garlic, saute until golden brown, about 2 minutes; add chili flakes, pour in white wine, stir and cook for a few seconds.
2. Add crushed tomatoes, bay leaves, and onions; stir, cover, and bring to a boil.
3. Add potatoes, rinse tomato can with water, and add to pan (be sure potatoes are completely submerged) add fresh parsley, sprinkle in a dash of salt and pepper to taste, cover and reduce heat to a low simmer, cook until potatoes are just about cooked through, but not falling apart, about 10 minutes.
4. Add the baccalà (be sure potatoes and baccalà are fully submerged, if needed add more water) sprinkle more fresh parsley, cover, and continue to simmer over low heat for another 5 minutes until baccalà flakes easily with a fork; add additional salt, pepper or chili flakes if needed, adjust to taste.
5. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve family style right from the pan; don't forget to serve with crusty bread for mopping all that delicious sauce.