If you blink, this popular Italian vegetable will already be gone. Even though the growing season for agretti is less than a month long, the plant leaves behind flavors and memories that linger forever. Agretti—one of the most mouth-watering, bitter spring veggies—has always been extremely desirable in the Lazio and Umbria regions of Italy, but now it’s gaining popularity all over the world, wherever weather permits. Apparently, Northern California gets just the right amount of ocean breeze to grow agretti properly. Also known as Barba di Frate (or “monk’s beard”), the plant’s Latin name is Salsola soda. Agretti stems look like needles, and they’re normally cooked ripassati, sautéed with oil and lemon.
Sacramento-based chef, forager, and food writer Hank Shaw explains, “Agretti is just sexy. Lacy, delicate, but packed with flavor, this relative of the sea bean is one of the most unusual residents of my garden.” The first rule when making agretti? Don’t overcook it. Agretti leaves are very delicate. Shaw continues, “I primarily eat it as a sort of vegetable mimic to angel hair pasta, along with grated parmesan, lots of garlic and olive oil, plus a little lemon juice, black pepper, and a hint of anchovy. Fantastico! Agretti is also very good mixed into an omelet or quiche or frittata, steamed by itself along with the flavors of my pasta dish, as well as tossed in a salad raw. Beyond that, agretti is an excellent addition to potato salad, or really any crunchy salad.”
Suzette Gresham, chef and co-owner of San Francisco Michelin-star restaurant Acquerello, loves this veggie so much that she grows it in her own garden. Her delicious Cuttlefish Tagliatelle with Capers, Lobster, and Agretti pays homage to the Mediterranean.
If you ever wander into Rome, be sure to stop by the modern trattoria Santo Palato. Chef Sarah Cicolini, one of the most innovative cooks of our time, adds an extra touch to many Roman staples. Lately, she’s been getting a lot of attention for her heartier dishes, like veal sweetbread—a classic dish from the quinto quarto tradition—which she serves with agretti and gravy.
Cuttlefish “tagliatelle” with capers, lobster, and agretti from Acquerello’s chef and co-owner, Suzette Gresham
Ingredients
serves two
1 lb of Cuttlefish
1 lobster tail
1 Bunch of Agretti
Garlic
3 tablespoons Extra virgin Olive oil
Finely chopped parsley
Salt
Chili Flakes
1 Tablespoons of capers
Chef’s Notes:
Cuttlefish is the noodle! This dish really epitomizes our modern direction, yet is grounded in an Italian approach to cuisine. Using a more modern technique we create this dish with a very classic flavor profile and that works for modern dietary restrictions. The cuttlefish/sepia we use comes from the Mediterranean and agretti is being grown for us by a local micro green farm. Originally, it is a coastal Italian succulent that is very subtle, adding a slightly crunchy, saline finish.
Recipe/Instructions
Cuttlefish Noodles: Cooked sous vide in olive oil, 1 1⁄2 hours at 212 degrees F, then compressed in stacks of three and frozen, sliced on meat slicer into the “noodles”
Pick up: Sautéed in a pan with sliced garlic, capers, chili flakes, extra virgin olive oil
Garnish: Steamed lobster pieces, agretti
Specifics: Micro-mandolined garlic slices are added to a cold pan with capers, dry red chili flakes, and olive oil. It is gently brought up to temperature without coloring the garlic. The sliced cuttlefish is warmed in hot water briefly, drained and added to the pan. We finish with the lobster chunks and a sprinkle of finely chopped parsley. Serve immediately. Top with a pinch of micro agretti.